Tony Incontro’s infatuation with salumi started around age eight, when he’d help his Calabrian grandfather clean casings and butcher pork shoulder in the garage for a holiday sausage dish. It’s no wonder he now serves as head salumist/sous chef of Del Dotto Winery in St. Helena, Calif., an area he considers “the Tuscany part of America.” There he makes more than 15 versions of dry-cured salumi—from coppa to culatello—but dreams of owning his own salumeria one day.
What are some of your early salumi memories?
My grandfather, brother, dad, uncle and I would butcher 100 pounds of pork shoulder in the garage around Christmas. It was almost primal. We’d make a big batch of our sweet and spicy sausage for Christmas Eve. My grandfather would do a separate Calabrian-style, dry-cured sausage. I loved it and still do it today. Read more →