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Tony Incontro Treats His Charcuterie Like His Children


Tony Incontro’s infatuation with salumi started around age eight, when he’d help his Calabrian grandfather clean casings and butcher pork shoulder in the garage for a holiday sausage dish. It’s no wonder he now serves as head salumist/sous chef of Del Dotto Winery in St. Helena, Calif., an area he considers “the Tuscany part of America.” There he makes more than 15 versions of dry-cured salumi—from coppa to culatello—but dreams of owning his own salumeria one day.

What are some of your early salumi memories?

My grandfather, brother, dad, uncle and I would butcher 100 pounds of pork shoulder in the garage around Christmas. It was almost primal. We’d make a big batch of our sweet and spicy sausage for Christmas Eve. My grandfather would do a separate Calabrian-style, dry-cured sausage. I loved it and still do it today. Read more

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